||"Textiles of the Hill
Tribes of Burma" by Michael C. Howard published by White Lotus
Press 1999 ISBN 974-8434-84-2. Comprehensive study of the textiles of
some 70 tribes with reviews of existing literature and surveys of museum
collections with colour and black and white photos.
||"Textiles from Burma: Featuring the James Henry Green Collection"
Edited by Elizabeth Dell & Sandra Dudley published in 2003 by Philip
Wilson Publishers ISBN 1-58886-067-1 Series of papers on the history,
production, meaning , collection and continuing impact of textiles from
Burma illustrated by the textiles in the James Henry Green Collection
in Brighton Museum and from other collections around the world. Very fine
Frontier Photographs 1918 - 1935" edited by Elizabeth Dell based
on the James Henry Green photographs published by Merrell Publishers in
association with The Green Centre for Non-Western Art, Brighton 2000 ISBN
1-85894-103-2. Essays looking at different aspects of the photograph
collection with an album of 250 photos from the 1600 photos taken in the
1920s and 30s.
vanishing tribes of Burma" by Richard K Diran published by Weidenfeld
& Nicolson 1997 ISBN 0-297-82294-2. Mainly a picture book showing
different tribes with some text (questionable in parts), however, excellent
||"National Ethnic Groups
of Myanmar" by U Min Naing translated by Hpone Thant published
by Swift winds Books 2000. Mainly photographs from 1950s to 1980s with
Palaung in Northern Thailand" by Michael C Howard and Wattana
Wattanapun published by Silkworm Books, Chiang Mai 2001 ISBN 974-88325-1-1.
As well as information on the Silver Palaung's flight from Burma to Northern
Thailand and subsequent settlement in Thailand in a handful of villages
north of Chiang Mai this small book draws together information on the
Palaung in historical resources and Michael Howard's field research in
Burma at Kalaw in Shan State.
at Home: Burma's Shan States in the Early 1900s" by Leslie Milne
published by White Lotus Press in 2001 ISBN 974-7534-26-6 Account of the
Shan Stres where Mrs Leslie Milne lived from 1906-07. For most of the
times she was the only foreign resident. She studied most aspects of Shan
life, particularly family life. Her passion for textiles and natural history
led her to record natural dyes and products. 2 chapters on history and
literature of the Shan States by Rev Wilbur Willis Cochrane.
||"Power Dressing: Lana Shan Siam 19th Century Court Dress"
by Susan Conway and published by The James H.W. Thompson Foundation in
2003. ISBN 974-9190-08-4. Catalogue fo the exhibitionof 19th and 20th
century court dress, textiles and regalia from the principalities of Lanna,
the Shan States and the kingdom of Siam. The exhibition features richly
woven and embroidered textiles and high quality regalia, made by skilled
artisans. The objects were tokens of tribute and gifts of exchange between
royal families.(Minute) text in English and Thai.
Textiles of South-east Asia" by Sylvia Fraser-Lu published by
Oxford University Press 1988. ISBN 0-19-588954-1. Covers Thailand, Laos,
Kampuchea, Vietnam, Malaysia, Brunei, Philippines, Indonesia and with
some excellent pages on weaving in Burma. (See reference to Intha
||"Peoples of the Golden
Triangle, Six Tribes in Thailand" by Paul and Elaine Lewis published
by Thames and Hudson 1984 ISBN 0-500-97314-8 Excellent photographs and
descriptions of clothing, jewelry and customs of Karen, Akha, Hmong, Mien,
Lisu and Lahu which is also relevant for parts of Burma where the Lewises
spent part of their ministry. The book which started it all for me.
||"The Karen People
of Burma: A Study in Anthropology and Ethnology" by Harry Ignatius
Marshall published by White Lotus Press 1997 reprinted from 1922 edition
ISBN 974-8496-86-4. Classical anthropological monograph written 80 years
ago but still a significant ethnographic study.
||"The Hmong, A Guide
to Traditional Lifestyles" by Robert Cooper published by Times
Editions Pte Ltd 1998. ISBN 981-204-803-0. Provides insight into Hmong
history, the establishment of house and household, lineage and clan, village
life, courtship and marriage customs, economy, music codes, crafts (very
little on textiles), belief in the otherworld and communication with it,
propitiating the spirits, shamanism and death rituals with accompanying
photos and illustrations.
||"The Akha: Guardians
of the forest" by Jim Goodman published by Teak House, Asia Film
House Pty Ltd in 1997. ISBN 1-876437-02-2. Information on the Akha, history,
culture in Thailand, Burma, Laos, Vietnam and China. Full of excellent
photographs with very many showing textiles being worn.
||"Notes from the Field:
On the Trail of Khumi, Khami, and Mro Textiles" by
Deborah Lindsay Garner and Jay Bommer in The Textile Museum Journal (Washington)
1999-2000 Volumes 38 and 39 ISSN: 0083-7407. Pages 26-41 of informative
text and some excellent black & white photos helpful for textile collectors.
||"Kalagas: The Wall
Hangings of Southeast Asia"
by Mary Anne Stanislaw published by Ainslie's CA 1987. ISBN 0-9618445-0-7.
The history of, construction information and the stories illustrated in
Peoples of Northeast India, The Nagas, Society, Culture and the Colonial
Encounter" by Julian Jacobs with Alan Macfarlane, Sarah Harrison
& Anita Herle first published by Thames and Hudson in 1900. 1998 edition
ISBN 0-500-97471-3. The book is one of the products of a five-year research
project on the history and anthropology of the Nagas of Northeast India.
This vibrant material culture is illustrated by very many photographs
of textiles, basketry, jewelry, weapons, metalwork and carvings. These
artefacts are examined in historical and anthropological context. Nagas
may be found in northeast India and parts of Burma.
||"The Seven Sisters of India: Tribal Worlds between Tibet
and Burma" by Aglaja Stirn & Peter van Ham published
in 2000 by Prestel Verlag ISBN 3-7913-2399-7. India's remote Northeast
comprising 7 states stretching from Tibet in the north to Myanmar in the
south including Nagaland, Meghalaya and Assam. Individual chapters focus
on different aspects of life, religious belief and ritual including one
on weaving. Excellent quality photographs and informative text.
||"Mru: Hill People on the Border of Bangladesh"
by Claus-Dieter Brauns and
Lorenz G. Loffler. English translation published by Birkhauser
in 1990 of original 1986 German publication.
ISBN 3-8176-1816-3. Superb photos and informative text on the
culture of the Mru based on the authors living for several months with
the Mru. Includes photos of textiles being worn and made.
||"The Mrus: Peaceful Hillfolk of Bangladesh"
by Claus-Dieter Brauns in the National Geographic Magazine issue
of February 1973, Vol 143, No 1.
Mainly pictorial record of the Mru. Taster for the book by Claus
Dieter Bruans and Lorenz G. Loffler listed above.
||"The Chittagong Hill Tracts: Living in a Borderland"
by Willem van Schendel, Wolfgang Mey & Aditya Kumar Dewan published
by White Lotus in 2000
ISBN 974-8434-98-2 Examines the borderland between the three countries
- Burma, India & Bangladesh - inhabited by 12 distinct ethnic groups
with strong cultural and linguistic links with Southeast Asia. Black and
white old photographs and colour recent showing area and people and including
||"The Hidden World of the Naga: Living Traditions in Northeast
India and Burma" by Aglaja Stirn & Peter van Ham published
in 2003 by Prestel Verlag ISBN
3-7913-2878-6 First comprehensive examination of the tribal groups
that for centuries have lived in relative isolation in the hills and mountains
of Northeast India and Northwest Myanmar. Stunning new photos the book
is 'a celebration of the Naga cultural realm covering aspects ranging
from art and architecture to traditional customs, crafts and everyday
life. Includes a chapter on weaving. Full of photos showing costume.
||"Textiles and the
Tai Experience in Southeast Asia" by Mattiebelle Gittinger, H
Leedom Lefferts Jr published by The Textile Museum, Washington 1992. ISBN
0-87405-030-8. Catalogue from 1992 exhibition at the museum. Mainly black
and white photos but 23 colour plates. Detailed chapters from the authors
on Tai texile forms, contexts and meanings, textiles in the service of
Buddhism, in the service of Kings and in the service of self. Main focus
on the Tai as majority populations in Thailand and Laos but also references
to the 'strategically situated minorities' in Vietnam and Myanmar and
the small minorities in China, India and Cambodia.
||"Textiles of Southeast
Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation" by Robyn Maxwell
published by Periplus Editions
(HK) Ltd in 2003. ISBN 0-7946-0104-9. This is a reprinted edition of the
book below with new colour plates, a corrected text, and a new foreword
by Mattiebelle Gittinger.
There is no doubt that the switch
to colour of the majority of the plates makes a huge difference to this
excellent major reference work.
||"Textiles of Southeast
Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation" by Robyn Maxwell published
by Oxford University Press, Australian National Gallery in 1990 and reprinted
in 1994 ISBN 967-65-3060 3. Major reference work on the textiles of Southeast
Asia. Central focus is the interplay between indigenous Southeast Asian
traditions and the external cultural forces that have had a crucial part
of the historical development and changing nature of the region's textile
traditions. Needs careful (but rewarding) study as textiles from particular
groups or areas appear throughout the volume illustrating different themes.
||"Textiles of Southeast
Asia: An Annotated & Illustrated Bibliography" by Michael
C. Howard published by White Lotus Press1994. ISBN 974-8496-13-9 In depth
compilation of the literature in the field. Small number of colour plates
of textiles including a few from Laos. Almost 50 pages of detailed references
to literature on textiles in Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia.
||"The Art of Asian
Costume" published by University of Hawaii Art Gallery University
of Hawaii in 1989. Exhibition with apparel from 20 Asian countries from
the Asian Costume Collection of the Department of Human Resources at the
University of Hawaii.