Cambodia and Laos 2010: travel notes

CAMBODIA: Siem Reap

Artisans d’Angkor is by far the most visible and high-end textile shopping in Siem Reap. They produce lovely and expensive items with Cambodian themes and using local craftspeople.

Night Market: A hodgepodge of souvenir stalls but fun to look around. Bring lots of small denomination US dollars!

LAOS: Luang Prabang

On the grounds of one of the wats we bought cold drinks from a woman manning a small stall. Excitingly, she was couching golden threads on a small piece of cloth! It was nice to see people still doing this in a serene open atmosphere and not in a sweatshop, as I saw in other textile production places. She didn’t speak any English so unfortunately I don’t know if this was an item to be sold later or for her own use. I did compensate her for taking photos!

Caruso Lao Home Craft, also on Sakaline Rd. Hong Kong designer Sandra Yuck owns this pricey but gorgeous shop. The main shop in Vientiane - see below. www.carusolao.com tel: 856-71-254574

Dang Market: A small open air shopping complex with few textile vendors (mostly selling phones and shoes) but possibly worth a quick look after visiting the TAEC.

Mixay: On the main downtown street, (Sakaline Road) on the same side as the museum. Interesting and reasonably priced clothing, scarves and more.

Mulberries. Sells lovely organic silk and mulberry tea! Madame Komally, who owns the shop and organic silk farm, was nominated for a Nobel prize a few years ago for her locally based enterprise, which enables Lao village silk producers. Location on the Mekong River road near the (excellent) L’Elephant restaurant. tel: 071 254 594. www.mulberries.org

Night Market. The night market is convenient for souvenir shopping after a day of wat-watching, but don’t expect any high quality items, textiles or otherwise. Most of the things for sale are needlework tote bags, bedding, t-shirts and silk (or mostly silk) scarves. The hand-made paper paintings are sweet, though, and the vendors are very friendly. They set up umbrellas and place their wares on mats on the ground, so prepare for some crouching. Most vendors will loan you a small seat so you are more comfortable.

Ock Pop Tok, also on Sakaline Rd. One of the best quality shops in Laos, with another shop in Vientiane. Stunning weavings, with price tags to match, in combinations of traditional and contemporary motifs. www.ockpoptok.com See a short article 'Weaving in Luang Prabang, Laos' by Louise Castellanon on attending a weaving workshop at the gallery.

Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre (TEAC). A small but informative museum just up the hill from Dang Market. Exhibits and explanations of traditional costumes and rituals from several ethnic groups in Laos. Very worthwhile visit. www.taeclaos.org tel: 071 253-364 entry: 20,000 kip

There are many small textile shops around the city, just walk around and have a look.

LAOS: Vientiane

The capital city. Near the river, which is the tourist area, are many small shops selling the exact same items.

Caruso Lao, Ban Phiavath road, # 008 tel: 856-21-223644. Hong Kong designer Sandra Yuck owns this pricey but gorgeous shop. However, there are some close-outs in textiles, wood and sculpture. This is the main shop but there is also a shop in Luang Prabang (see above). www.carusolao.com

Kanchana. Lovely shop with a huge selection of textiles. Close to Wat Dam, a little hard to find. The gracious owner, Bouavanh Phouminh, also runs the Lao Textile Museum, which is a great place to visit.

Lao Textile Museum is located out in the country, about a 20 minute ride out of town, at 151 Nongthatai Village, Have your driver call to get directions. tel (856-21) 213 467. In beautiful wooden houses Bouavanh Phouminh has exhibits of weaving and farming tools, old textiles, dying materials and more. You can try your hand at weaving at a set up loom. She is very well set up for group tours as well, and has some funding from Japanese and German foundations. www.ibiss.co.jp/laomuseum/html Well worth the time to visit. Entrance fee: 30,000 kip

Mulberries. 021 263 371 . Near the river on Nazim Road. www.mulberries.org (They also have a silk production farm which is open for tours in ZiengKhouang) which is a few hours outside of Vientiane. Monday – Saturday 8 am to 4 pm.

Morning Market: A misnomer as it’s evidently open until 4 pm. A very large covered shopping center with very many textile and craft shops.

CAMBODIA: Siem Reap Artisans d’Angkor is by far the most visible and high-end textile shopping in Siem Reap. They produce lovely and expensive items with Cambodian themes and using local craftspeople. Night Market: A hodgepodge of souvenir stalls but fun to look around. Bring lots of small denomination US dollars! LAOS: Luang Prabang On the grounds of one of the wats we bought cold drinks from a woman manning a small stall. Excitingly, she was couching golden threads on a small piece of cloth! It was nice to see people still doing this in a serene open atmosphere and not in a sweatshop, as I saw in other textile production places. She didn’t speak any English so unfortunately I don’t know if this was an item to be sold later or for her own use. I did compensate her for taking photos! Caruso Lao Home Craft, also on Sakaline Rd. Hong Kong designer Sandra Yuck owns this pricey but gorgeous shop. The main shop in Vientiane - see below. www.carusolao.com tel: 856-71-254574 Dang Market: A small open air shopping complex with few textile vendors (mostly selling phones and shoes) but possibly worth a quick look after visiting the TAEC. Mixay: On the main downtown street, (Sakaline Road) on the same side as the museum. Interesting and reasonably priced clothing, scarves and more. Mulberries. Sells lovely organic silk and mulberry tea! Madame Komally, who owns the shop and organic silk farm, was nominated for a Nobel prize a few years ago for her locally based enterprise, which enables Lao village silk producers. Location on the Mekong River road near the (excellent) L’Elephant restaurant. tel: 071 254 594. www.mulberries.org Night Market. The night market is convenient for souvenir shopping after a day of wat-watching, but don’t expect any high quality items, textiles or otherwise. Most of the things for sale are needlework tote bags, bedding, t-shirts and silk (or mostly silk) scarves. The hand-made paper paintings are sweet, though, and the vendors are very friendly. They set up umbrellas and place their wares on mats on the ground, so prepare for some crouching. Most vendors will loan you a small seat so you are more comfortable. Ock Pop Tok, also on Sakaline Rd. One of the best quality shops in Laos, with another shop in Vientiane. Stunning weavings, with price tags to match, in combinations of traditional and contemporary motifs. www.ockpoptok.com See a short article 'Weaving in Luang Prabang, Laos' by Louise Castellanon on attending a weaving workshop at the gallery. Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre (TEAC). A small but informative museum just up the hill from Dang Market. Exhibits and explanations of traditional costumes and rituals from several ethnic groups in Laos. Very worthwhile visit. www.taeclaos.org tel: 071 253-364 entry: 20,000 kip There are many small textile shops around the city, just walk around and have a look. LAOS: Vientiane The capital city. Near the river, which is the tourist area, are many small shops selling the exact same items. Caruso Lao, Ban Phiavath road, # 008 tel: 856-21-223644. Hong Kong designer Sandra Yuck owns this pricey but gorgeous shop. However, there are some close-outs in textiles, wood and sculpture. This is the main shop but there is also a shop in Luang Prabang (see above). www.carusolao.com Kanchana. Lovely shop with a huge selection of textiles. Close to Wat Dam, a little hard to find. The gracious owner, Bouavanh Phouminh, also runs the Lao Textile Museum, which is a great place to visit. Lao Textile Museum is located out in the country, about a 20 minute ride out of town, at 151 Nongthatai Village, Have your driver call to get directions. tel (856-21) 213 467. In beautiful wooden houses Bouavanh Phouminh has exhibits of weaving and farming tools, old textiles, dying materials and more. You can try your hand at weaving at a set up loom. She is very well set up for group tours as well, and has some funding from Japanese and German foundations. www.ibiss.co.jp/laomuseum/html Well worth the time to visit. Entrance fee: 30,000 kip Mulberries. 021 263 371 . Near the river on Nazim Road. www.mulberries.org (They also have a silk production farm which is open for tours in ZiengKhouang) which is a few hours outside of Vientiane. Monday – Saturday 8 am to 4 pm. Morning Market: A misnomer as it’s evidently open until 4 pm. A very large covered shopping center with very many textile and craft shops.

Cambodia and Laos 2010: travel notes - Donna Lum