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Author Topic:   Embroidery or discontinuous supplementary weft?
Pamela (Moderator) posted 3/12/03 11:02 PM     Click here to send email to Pamela  
A topic that might be of interest to participants to this forum and where contributions would be very welcome, is one that came up in an exchange of emails between Susan Stem and myself about the ‘challenge’ of identifying whether a textile has embroidery or discontinuous supplementary weft. The mantra that I try to follow is that learnt from an experienced UK textile expert, Deryn O’Connor, as we poured over textiles in southwest China – weft can ONLY go in straight lines across the fabric! Sounds simplistic? Look particularly at the reverse of the textile - do any of the supplementary threads move vertically as well as horizontally? If they do then the thread is probably added by embroidery.

[This message has been edited on 03/12/2003]
David and Barbara posted 4/4/03 4:51 PM    
We have found an even more reliable guide comes from a magnified look at the entry points of the yarn in question. If the ground fabric is fine and that yarn always neatly enters the textile between warps or wefts -- and never pierces other yarns -- it is likely worked in in the process of weaving, rather than embroidered on later. Some yarns that are woven in move vertically or diagonally -- not all travel only weft-wise.
Pamela (Moderator) posted 4/4/03 10:25 PM     Click here to send email to Pamela  
David and Barbara Welcome to the forum and thanks for your contributions. Yes, pierced threads - if you can spot them - are a dead give away for embroidery. Detective work with an interesting textile can be so rewarding. Pamela
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