||"Peoples of the Golden
Triangle, Six Tribes in Thailand" by Paul and Elaine Lewis published
by Thames and Hudson 1984 ISBN 0-500-97314-8 Excellent photographs and
descriptions of clothing, jewelry and customs of Karen, Akha, Hmong, Mien,
Lisu and Lahu which is also relevant for parts of Burma where the Lewises
spent part of their ministry. The book which started it all for me.
||"Hill Tribe Textiles" by Munintorn Tiyayon,
Mongkhol Chantrabumroung, Sarapee Sila published in 2000 by the Tribal
Research Institute, Department of Public Welfare, Ministry of Labour and
Social Welfare of Thailand. Based on data and statistics of 9 tribes living
in 20 provinces, 3,527 villages, 1333,070 households with a population
of 751,886 people. The book features the textiles of 6 highland ethnic
groups. Text and photos includes quite detailed information on techniques.
||"A Golden Souvenier
of Hilltribes of Thailand"
by Michael Freeman published by Asia Books in 1992 and reprinted in 2000
ISBN 962-7987-09-2 Photos and text in this relatively slim volume abut
the culture of the Akha, Hmong, Karen, Lahu and Lisu tribes in Thailand.
||"The Hill Tribes of
Northern Thailand" by John R Davies assisted by Tommy Wu published
by Footloose Books in 1990 ISBN 0-9516496-0-4. Explains how the hill tribes
live, their expectations and the pressing problems faced by them today
and in the years ahead.
||"Lao-Tai Textiles: The Textiles of Xam Nuea and Muang Phuan"
by Patricia Cheesman and published
by Studio Naenna Co in 2004 ISBN 974-272-915-8.
Based nearly 30 years of exposure to Lao-tai textiles and in-depth
research of the Tai-Kadai language group. In depth discussion of the textiles
(from China, Laos, Thailand,
Vietnam) against their
historical and cultural background, with information on techniques and
design motifs and with meticulously labeled illustrations. An
excellent reference work for collectors.
||"Tai Groups of Thailand:
Volume 1 Introduction and Overview" by Joachim Schliesinger published
by White Lotus Press in 2001 ISBN 974-7534-47-9 Describes early events
of Southeas Asia and today's territory of Thailand before the coming of
the Tai, presents history after their arrival, origins and development
of ethnic Tai people.
||"Tai Groups of Thailand:
Volume 2 Profile of Existing Groups" by Joachim Schliesinger
published by White Lotus Press in 2001 ISBN 974-7534-48-7 Sketches each
of the 30 Tai-speaking groups residing in Thailand. Groups are presented
with their domestic history, costumes, crafts, design of houses and villages,
activiities in agriculture, economy, society and religion of each group.
||"Around Lan-na: A
Guide to Thailand's Northern Border Region from Chiang Mai to Nan"
by Christian Goodden published by Jungle Books in 1999 ISBN 0-9527383-1-7
Narrative and cultural guide describing an arc around Thailand's north-western
and north-eastern borders with Burma and Laos.
||"The Yao: The Mien
and Mun Yao in China, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand" by Jess G.
Pourret published by River Books Co., Ltd, distributed outside Thailand
and USA by Thames & Hudson 2002. ISBN 974-8225-52-6. Full of excellent
photographs and a textile collectors' dream when it comes to identification
showing very many textile examples both by themselves and being worn.
Colour photos from the end of the twentieth century with black and white
photos from the 1920s, 1940s and 1950s - unfortunately I have yet to find
to background of the earlier (very excellent) photos. The material is
not grouped by country but by topic illustrating similarities regardless
Mien Embroidery, Migration and Change" by Ann Yarwood Goldman,
published by White Lotus Press 1995. ISBN 974-8496-41-4. A study of the
Lao Mien from North-western Laos forced out of their villages to refugee
camps in Laos and Thailand and then many resettled in the 1980s in the
USA, Canada and France. This book looks particular at their embroidery
and how it has changed as well as much being imported overseas from relatives
in Thailand, Laos and China.
||"Creative Pa Ndau:
A New Approach to an Ancient Art Form" by Carla J. Hassel Wallace
published by Homeslead in 1984 ISBN 0-87069-390-5. Features Pa ndau reverse-applique
technique of the Hmong with step-by-step instructions with many diagrams
||"The Akha: Guardians
of the forest" by Jim Goodman published by Teak House, Asia Film
House Pty Ltd in 1997. ISBN 1-876437-02-2. Information on the Akha, history,
culture in Thailand, Burma, Laos, Vietnam and China. Full of excellent
photographs with very many showing textiles being worn.
||"The Hmong, A Guide
to Traditional Lifestyles" by Robert Cooper published by Times
Editions Pte Ltd 1998. ISBN 981-204-803-0. Provides insight into Hmong
history, the establishment of house and household, lineage and clan, village
life, courtship and marriage customs, economy, music codes, crafts (very
little on textiles), belief in the otherworld and communication with it,
propitiating the spirits, shamanism and death rituals with accompanying
photos and illustrations.
Palaung in Northern Thailand" by Michael C Howard and Wattana
Wattanapun published by Silkworm Books, Chiang Mai 2001 ISBN 974-88325-1-1.
As well as information on the Silver Palaung's flight from Burma to Northern
Thailand and subsequent settlement in Thailand in a handful of villages
north of Chiang Mai this small book draws together information on the
Palaung in historical resources and Michael Howard's field research in
Burma at Kalaw in Shan State.
Voices: The Art of Hilltribe Life" published by Thai
Airways International in in 'Sawasdee' Volume 27 Number 3 March 1998.
by Susan Conway published by British Museum Press in 1992 ISBN 0-7141-2506-7.
Descriptions of textiles in Thailand. No attempt to identify any tribal
groups even where photos show textiles being worn by clearly identifiable
||Ban-Rai Pai Ngarm
||"Handwoven Thaisilk:Indigenous Handiwork"
by Siri Pasook published by Odeon Store Printers, Bangkok 2002 ISBN 974-277-639-3.
Full of photos of various types and styles of Thai weaving. Most text
in Thai but some limited Engish text.
from the Mae Chaem District of Chiang Mai Province" by Nussara
Tiengget published by Noppra Printing Co 2002. ISBN 974-85438-5-4 Full
of excellent colour photos of chok designs from hem pieces with close-up
details all from the Mae Chaem district. All text in Thai.
||"Silk Brocade Weaving in northeastern Thailand"
article by Barry Norman
in Arts of Asia Vol 34 No 4 Jul/Aug 2004
||"Thai Textiles of Isan
Design" by Songpandh Wanmas published in 1991. ISBN
974-276-794-7 Text all in Thai.
Black and white photos and drawings of the weaving process plus colour
photos of details of woven designs. One section on continuous supplementary
weft designs and one of mat
||"Buddhist Textiles of Laos, Lan Na and the Isan: The Iconography
of Design Elements" by Fredrick W Bunce published by D.K.
Printworld (P) Ltd. in 2004 ISBN 81-246-0250-6 All diagrams and photos
in black and white. The text suffers from poor proof reading.
||"Thailand: Weaving & the rice cycle"
by Susan Conway published in 1990
||"Silken Threads Lacquer
Thrones: Lan Na Court Textiles" by Susan Conway published by
River Books Co., Ltd, distributed outside Thailand and USA by Thames &
Hudson 2002. ISBN 974-8225-65-8 A serious study of the topic and at the
same time a 'coffee table' volume. The focus as the title suggests is
on the court textiles. Some of the photos included in the two Patricia
||"Power Dressing: Lana Shan Siam 19th Century Court Dress"
by Susan Conway and published by The James H.W. Thompson Foundation in
2003. ISBN 974-9190-08-4. Catalogue fo the exhibitionof 19th and 20th
century court dress, textiles and regalia from the principalities of Lanna,
the Shan States and the kingdom of Siam. The exhibition features richly
woven and embroidered textiles and high quality regalia, made by skilled
artisans. The objects were tokens of tribute and gifts of exchange between
royal families.(Minute) text in English and Thai.
||"Lao Na Textiles:
Yuan Lue Lao" by Songsak Prangwatthanakun and Patricia Cheesman
published by Center for the Promotion of Arts & Culture, Chiang Mai
University. Catalogue to accompany an exhibition at Chiang Mai University
in 1987. Excellent colour photographs of Tai textiles of Lan Na (8 provinces
of upper northern Thailand and out to Sipsong Pan Na (China) and Laos.
Discusses textile history, techniques, dyes and clothing. My first book
on Lao textiles when I had just collected my first Lao Na textiles - two
old pha biang - in 1988.
||"Textiles and the
Tai Experience in Southeast Asia" by Mattiebelle Gittinger, H
Leedom Lefferts Jr published by The Textile Museum, Washington 1992. ISBN
0-87405-030-8. Catalogue from 1992 exhibition at the museum. Mainly black
and white photos but 23 colour plates. Detailed chapters from the authors
on Tai texile forms, contexts and meanings, textiles in the service of
Buddhism, in the service of Kings and in the service of self. Main focus
on the Tai as majority populations in Thailand and Laos but also references
to the 'strategically situated minorities' in Vietnam and Myanmar and
the small minorities in China, India and Cambodia.
||"Textiles of Southeast
Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation" by Robyn Maxwell
published by Periplus Editions
(HK) Ltd in 2003. ISBN 0-7946-0104-9. This is a reprinted edition of the
book below with new colour plates, a corrected text, and a new foreword
by Mattiebelle Gittinger.
There is no doubt that the switch
to colour of the majority of the plates makes a huge difference to this
excellent major reference work.
||"Textiles of Southeast
Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation" by Robyn Maxwell published
by Oxford University Press, Australian National Gallery in 1990 and reprinted
in 1994 ISBN 967-65-3060 3. Major reference work on the textiles of Southeast
Asia. Central focus is the interplay between indigenous Southeast Asian
traditions and the external cultural forces that have had a crucial part
of the historical development and changing nature of the region's textile
traditions. Needs careful (but rewarding) study as textiles from particular
groups or areas appear throughout the volume illustrating different themes.
||"Textiles of Southeast
Asia: An Annotated & Illustrated Bibliography" by Michael
C. Howard published by White Lotus Press1994. ISBN 974-8496-13-9 In depth
compilation of the literature in the field. Small number of colour plates
of textiles including a few from Laos. Almost 50 pages of detailed references
to literature on textiles in Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia.
||"The Art of Asian
Costume" published by University of Hawaii Art Gallery University
of Hawaii in 1989. Exhibition with apparel from 20 Asian countries from
the Asian Costume Collection of the Department of Human Resources at the
University of Hawaii
of South-east Asia" by Sylvia Fraser-Lu published by Oxford University
Press 1988. ISBN 0-19-588954-1. Covers weaving in Burma, Thailand, Laos,
Kampuchea, Vietnam, Malaysia, Brunei, Philippines, Indonesia.
||"Woven Cargoes: Indian Textiles in the East"
by John Guy published by Thames and Hudson in 1998 ISBN 0-500-01863-4
Fascinating volume on the trade in Indian textiles to Southeast and East
Asia with excellent black & white and colour photos.