comparison of Iban (possibly Mualang) skirts

After the post of the first photo by Pamela, John subsequent referred us to "a skirt with the identical motif in Edric Ong's book "PUA". It is pictured as Bidang 1 (on page 67) in his book. Since the rest of his title has "Sarawak" in it, I assume his bidang is from Sarawak as well. He is not more specific as to location however. The designs are the same but embroidered a bit differently". Eric Ong describes the design as: 'A simple lozenge motif incorporating a fern tendril design that is repeated diagonally and in two basic colours - brown and black. The central panel woven in a 'brocade' technique exposing more weft. The top and bottom ikat borders separately woven and stiched on to the central panel. - Three bands consisting of 2 way lines and middle fern motif in earthy brown colour. 42" x 20".'

For those of you who have the relevant literature John suggests that the design is shown: "The 1912 book by Hose and McDougall - The Pagan Tribes of Borneo -has this same design on a skirt worn by a woman. FIGURE 106. Iban Women dancing with human Heads page 188." Susan Stem has pointed out to me that this same photo, although reversed, is shown on page 52, Figure 22 in Gittinger's Splendid Symbols.

Susan Stem is suggesting that the design may be appearing again: "I found another Iban skirt with similar 'hook' motifs as Pamela's, but not in the lattice pattern of John's: in Gittinger's Splendid Symbols, p.212. It appears to possibly be sungkit also".