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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 2:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
Posts: 1997
Location: Canterbury, UK
The Brunei Gallery
SOAS, University of London

Exhibition: World Eco Fibre & Textile (WEFT) Art - 18 January – 23 March 2013

WEFT explores the three dimensionality of textile art through installations and sculptural constructions, where contemporary textile artists are currently taking fibre sculpture into new areas. This extraordinary exhibition gives an insight into these current trends, showing how textile art can be considered as another genre of fine art. Exhibits include the work of contributing artists from over 35 countries the world over.

This rich exhibition highlights the manner in which traditional resist techniques such as ikat, tritik, shibori, yuzen and batik, together with the art of embellishment such as embroidery and quilting, are applied to contemporary textile art. The emphasis is on hand-woven and hand-made textiles, as opposed to the machine-made. Hand-made textiles display the skills of the designer and the producer and reflect a long history of artistic and cultural tradition.

The textiles themselves illustrate and display the use of natural yarns and dyes as a means of artistic expression. Natural fibres such as cotton, silk, ramie, abaca, pina, hemp and bark are employed. Colours which derive from natural dye materials such as plant roots, leaves, flowers, fruits, insects and molluscs are also part of this process. The use of natural mordents in the interaction of fixing colour to the cloth is also emphasised in this vibrant exhibition.

During this exhibition there will be demonstrations of textile production from different countries, starting with Malaysia in January, India in February and China in March.

WEFT is curated by Edric Ong and presented in association with Society Atelier Sarawak, Malaysia.


The exhibition is launched with a symposium titled Endangered Textile Traditions to be held at SOAS on the 18th and 19th of January. This symposium brings together the current work and research of international textile artists and scholars. To reserve a place at this symposium please register by contacting the Brunei Gallery or clicking the link HERE.


OPEN: Tuesday – Saturday 10.30 – 17.00 (Thurs late night opening until 20.00). CLOSED: Sunday, Monday, and Bank Holidays. ADMISSION FREE
T. 020 7898 4046 (recorded information) E. For more information visit:

File comment: Flier for WEFT exhibition and symposium at the Brunei Gallery, SOAS, University of London
WEFT_press_release.pdf [234.68 KiB]
Downloaded 391 times

on-line tribal textiles resource
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 9:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
Posts: 1997
Location: Canterbury, UK
I have received the latest schedule of the Symposium: 'Endangered Textile Traditions' being run by SOAS, UNIVERSITY OF LONDON in conjunction with the WEFT Art Exhibition at the Brunei Gallery, SOAS from 18th January - 23rd March 2013

Friday 18th January (Day 1) Lecture Theatre, SOAS Brunei Gallery

09.15 Registration in Brunei Gallery Suite
09.45 Edric Ong: Introduction to the WEFT Arts Exhibition and Symposium
10.00-13.00 Session 1 - Chair: Lesley Pullen (SOAS)
10.00 Susan Conway: Burma/Shan textiles
10.30 Rosella Morelli: Khami, Khumi and Mro Textiles of Burma
11.00-11.30 Refreshments provided in Brunei Gallery Suite
11.30 Keireine Canavan: 'Al Sadu Textiles from Kuwait: lost meanings and future prospects'
12.00 Aziz Murtazayev: Revitalising silk ikat weaving in Fergana Valley, Uzbekistan (tbc)
12.30 Tatiana Agababayeva & Aleksey Zaytsev: Batik Textiles of Azerbaijan (tbc)
13.00-14.00 Break for lunch
14.00-17.00 Session 2 - Chair: Joseph Lo (Heriot-Watt University, Edinburgh)
14.00 Jenny Balfour Paul: Indigo Blues for a Greener Future
14.30 Prof Tien Chin: 'Hsiang yun sha' - the mud-silks of Kwantung, China
15.00-15.30 Refreshments provided in Brunei Gallery Suite
15.30 Qiu Qunzhu: Reviving Ningbo Gold and Silver Embroidery
16.00 Joseph Lo: Musuo Textiles of Yunnan, China
16.30 Liang Xue Fang: Suzhou double-face embroidery of China
17.00 Edric Ong: Guided Tour of the WEFT Arts Exhibition

Saturday 19th January (Day 2) Room G2, SOAS Main Building

09.45 Registration in Room G2
10.00-13.00 Session 3 - Chair: Susan Conway (Centre of South East Asian Studies, SOAS)
10.00 Edric Ong: Iban 'Pua Kumbu' ikats of Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo
10.30 Janet Rata anak Noel: Iban textiles weaving tradition: preserving the sungkit technique
11.00-11.30 Refreshments provided in G2
11.30 Rambie Lim: Tepina-pineapple textiles from Palawan, Philippines
12.00 Lesley Pullen: In search of historic South East Asian textile motifs
12.30 Kirsten Scott: 'Fabric of Life: form, function and fashion in Ugandan mekeka'.
13.00-14.00 Break for lunch
14.00-17.00 Session 4 - Chair: Edric Ong (Society Atelier Sarawak, Kuching)
14.00 Ratna Krishnakumar & Sarita HegdeRoy: Revitalising the Benares silk saris of India
14.30 Anjana Somany: Narrative Painted Textiles of India
15.00-15.30 Refreshments provided in G2
15.30 Elana Dickson: Gongadi-the woolen blanket of Telangana, India
16.00 Firdose Jain: Fine embroidered pashminas of Kashmir
16.30 Asif Shaikh: Reviving Embroidery techniques in Gujarat India
17.00 Edric Ong: Closing Remarks

Please register by contacting the Brunei Gallery or clicking the link HERE

It all looks to be a very interesting and full programme!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:14 pm 
Site Admin

Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
Posts: 1997
Location: Canterbury, UK
The Brunei Gallery, SOAS, University of London and Society Atelier Sarawak Malaysia present World Eco-Fiber and Textile (WEFT) Art
18 Jan – 23 March 2013 Curated by Edric Ong of Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

I was very fortunate to be able to attend the opening reception and private view of the above WEFT exhibition on 17 Jan 2013. Sadly I was not able to attend the accompanying Symposium held at SOAS and running over the following two days: ‘Endangered Textile Traditions’.

I thought I would share some of my photos from the exhibition to try and give a flavour. I would certainly recommend visiting it – especially in the middle of winter – as I thoroughly enjoyed the whole impact and colour of the textiles which I thought were exceedingly well and excitingly hung by the SOAS team over two floors, making the most of an interesting staircase/stairwell between ground floor and basement.

The textiles where grouped by technique and included original textiles straight from the culture and then accompanied by modern interpretations which similar textiles had inspired. There were some fine old examples although these were not very accurately labelled. They were definitely not there as an ethnographic record but as an indication of inspiration. I was seriously impressed by many of the modern interpretations. If you knew your traditional textiles (or there was a relevant example) you could follow the inspiration. However, what I found very attractive was that these, in general, would not be seen as ‘ethnic textiles’ if used for clothing or décor. There was considerable subtlety buried in the beautiful weaves. I came away feeling that this is an important pointer for operations which are trying to save traditional techniques and yet find modern markets. The input from the designer – often not from the original culture – is very important in this creation of marketable textiles.

As so often happens, the modern textile that particularly exemplified this was one of my worst photos! It was a couple of lengths of crepe silk voile with prints that, when you looked closely, were inspired by Kayan/Kenyah motifs. This same inspiration was much more obvious in a bolder length of silk. I think that both were from Atelier Sarawak. On the floor above I was very taken by some striking ikat silk, especially a jacket, from Chabatik in Thailand which I looked up on the web: “Chabatik led by Sasiwan Damrongsiri, a young and talented Thai artist who has created her own style of textile weaving. She graduated from the Department of Applied Art Decorative at Silpakorn University. She specialises in computerised textile design to develop mudmee thai silk weaving.” “…there are two groups of weavers working with Chabatik. One in the Na Pho district of Burirum, the other in Ban Huay Khi Nu, in the province of KhonKaen.”

On the ground floor were two Iban artisans – one tying ikat on a frame and the other weaving. There were several lengths of silk ikat inspired by Iban Pua Kumba from Atelier Sarawak. Although I admire the technique of these direct representations of the Pua Kumba (which would originally have been in cotton and core to the culture) I find it hard to be moved by them and their very close stylistic appearance to their inspiration makes it difficult to imagine them translating into another existence.

My apologies to all the other textile artists who textiles I have not been able to show here. I have already overloaded this post with numerous photos pushing my advantage as 'forum admin' to the limit!

I hope that my eclectic sampling of the goodies on display gives an impression of the very varied textiles in the exhibition – in natural fibres and using natural dyestuffs – as well as giving an idea of the exuberance of the hanging which I thoroughly enjoyed. I found much to think about in how traditional techniques can be used to create fine 'modern' textiles. My own inspiration to collect traditional textiles was, in fact, a fascination with the underlying traditional techniques so this exhibition definitely had my name on it!!!

File comment: Dramatic opening 'welcome' to the exhibit with a huge felted creation above lovely ikat weaves - a stunning 'art installation'!
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File comment: Iban lady tying ikat in a frame
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File comment: Edric Ong giving an opening speech
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File comment: view of basement floor
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File comment: gorgeous silk weaves 'striding' through the basement floor of the exhibition
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File comment: detail of model of gorgeous silk weaves
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File comment: dramatic hanging of indigo ikat using the stairwell
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File comment: dramatic hanging of indigo ikat using the stairwell - detail
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File comment: sorry for poor quality photo of lovely silk crepe chiffon lengths with stamped Kayan/Kenya inspired motifs
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File comment: Kayan/Kenya inspired silk length - batik
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File comment: detail of Kayan/Kenya inspired silk length - batik
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File comment: Silk ikat from Chabatik, Thailand
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File comment: Modern silk kimono from Japan - which looked more Korean than Japanese in technique!
P1100095w.jpg [ 62.53 KiB | Viewed 6666 times ]

on-line tribal textiles resource
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 4:28 pm 

Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 7:35 pm
Posts: 176
Location: east coast
Thanks so much for posting the photos and comments. I'm sorry as always that I cannot make these venues.


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